Harlequin Beads & Jewelry

Pliers and Cutters Part 2

by Beverly Fernandes

Cutters are pliers with cutting edges and are specifically designed to "cut" wire or sheet metal while pliers are designed to hold and form metal. Most of the information from the previous article (Pliers and Cutters and their uses Part 1) applies to cutters with a few differences. Whereas "pliers" refers to nose shape, "cutters" refers to jaw length. First, we will consider jaw length and cutting capacity.

Jaw length determines the amount of cutting force that a cutter can exert, the amount of cutting force exerted decreases as the distance from the pivot point increases. This means a short- jawed cutter can exert relatively greater pressure at its tip than a long- jawed cutter. Force rather than reach is the main purpose of this type of these cutters. The long jawed cutter exerts less force and should not be used on thick or bulky metals. Long jawed cutters are more fragile and the purpose here is longer reach and a more delicate touch.

This does not mean that any cutter will cut any metal; cutters are given a rating called their "maximum cutting capacity". This refers to the ability of the cutter to pass through soft or nonferrous metals, which include yellow gold, silver, brass and copper. Nonferrous refers to the fact that most jewelry metals contain no iron and are therefore considered soft metals. Hard metals are denser than soft metals and include white gold, nickel, and steel. For working purposes they are considered ferrous metals. True ferrous metals must contain iron or steel.

The cutting capacity rating is measured from the pivot point to the center of the cutting edge. The cutting capacity from the center to the tip of the cutter is much less because force is exerted through a greater distance.

Cutting capacity is normally measured in wire gauge thickness. The "Brown and Sharpe" gauge measures standard thickness of wire from very thick (0 gauge) to very thin (34 gauge). Below is a conversion chart which includes gauge in both inches and millimeters.

Gauge	Inches	Millimeters
0	.325	8.26
2	.257	6.54
4	.204	5.19
6	.162	4.12
8	.128	3.26
10	.102	2.59
12	.081	2.05
13	.072	1.83
14	.064	1.63
15	.057	1.45
16	.051	1.29
18	.040	1.02
19	.036	.912
20	.032	.812
21	.028	.723
22	.025	.644
23	.023	.573
24	.020	.511
25	.018	.455
26	.016	.405
27	.014	.360
28	.013	.321
29	.011	.286
30	.010	.255
32	.0080	.2019
34	.0063	.1600

Pliers and cutters are only two of the many types of jewelers’ tools. Most jewelers and crafters have a variety of these on their workbenches. Along with the common forms of pliers, you might find specialty pliers like crimpers, jumpring pliers or bent nose pliers as well as various cutters for different gauges of wire. These are some of the most useful tools on any jewelers’ bench.